I no longer update this blog, please search for information on youtube 'paul crisp roadster'
This blog is about the conversion of a Smart Roadster to be a fully electric plug in car
I am really impressed by your great job ! I am french student in Mechanical engineering school, I am working with my school team on the smart roadster's gearbox. You seem to be an expert on smart roadster's gearbox. We will be pleased to ask you few questions about it. Is it possible to join you ? thanks in advance,
Hi Jim, Thank you for your interest in the blog. I can't really claim to be an expert at all on the gearbox at all, I have build the arduino motor controller to activate the gearbox selector which seems to work ok but is as yet still untested on the final system. I won't be using the clutch activation motor as I have a direct drive and will need to change gear by simply moving the selector and hopefully it should change to the next gear ratio without too much problem, my plan is to remove each intermediate gear so that I can select an empty position before moving it into the next gear, i.e. I will only use 2,4 and 6th gear or perhaps only 3rd and 5th? this may also improve the efficiency of the gearbox as a whole. I have taken the gearbox apart to see how it works so I understand it but I'm not sure I will be able to help you very much. Unfortunately I don't have much time at the moment which is why I can never seem to be able to finish this conversion. I will help if I can, what would you like to do with your gearbox?. Paul
Thank you for your quick answer. We have a small project which is convert all the electronic control and actuators on the gearbox by mechanical or hydraulic actuators. We have just started to work on it ... and we are wondering how many rotation are needed by the incremental motor to shift up or down a gear. For example how many rotation are needed to shift up from 1st > 2nd gear ? Is it the same number of rotation in order to shif up/down a gear ? Even if it is to switch to reverse gear ? In parallel we are making our own website about smart roadster, would you be agree if we present your work on your electronic conversion with a link up to your blog ? It seems to be very interesting and we think that it should be spread and shared !
Hello Paul, I am pleased you are getting back into your Roadster conversion project. I am at the same stage as you are with my Roadster. My trouble is my computer man has got so many things happening in his life that my conversion has stalled. We are trying to fool the cars computer with a camshaft signal so that it thinks it still has a petrol motor then we think we should be able to change gears using the gear lever!!
Can you tell me are you still planing to use the cars ECU (computer)? Its needed for central locking and a few other things like ABS, I think. Thanks, Michael.
Hello Paul, Great site and great job you are doing. I have a similar (in some ways) plan to your but the new engine will be a Honda K20A2 instead of an electric. The plan to work on the rear subframe and to keep the electrics of the smart is similar. As Mike asked you, I plan to keep the smart ECU so most of the original electronic features of the car remain working. But I need to fit the honda engine in the smart rear subframe and I was wondering if you could send me your 3d drawings of the thing. I'll be happy to help you anyway I can. My email is joaobasso10 at hotmail dot com. Many thanks. Joao
Hi Neil. So far I am only on theory Land. O got to talk to a polish guy that has done the wiring of a Manu engine conversions and he says that he keeps the original engine ECU together with the new engine ECU. I plan to keep sensors working in paralel in the new engine but maybe that will be harder in an electric engine...? Most important Will be to have the rpm signal working and that can be done by adding a trigger ring and the original smart sensor to the electric motor. You have to calculate how many triggers per rotation you need só that max rpm on the electric motor converts into 6000rpm on the smart rev counter.
Hi, I definitely want to try and keep the ECU, unfortunately due to young kids, low on cash at the moment and no time I'm still stuck on getting any further with this conversion, the control all laid out on the bench waiting to be switched on, just need some half decent batteries to power it up. I have always assumed once I discover what the sensors are on the engine I can replicate them using an Arduino (or some simple electrical method) to fool the ECU into thinking it's controlling the standard engine. I've assumed there aren't too many sensors, Revs, a few Temperature, oil levels etc. As you say the engine revs can be triggered by the electric motor so that's easy.
Hopefully I'll find out soon, I tried to start the ICE recently to keep it moving but the alternator is ceased again (and the clutch was snatching badly last time I drove it) so the best thing is just to take the whole sub-frame out and get on with the conversion.
Hi Joao, I've emailed you with the CAD files. Hope they are useful. I'm amazed the Honda will fit, are you using the Smart gearbox?, I'd be a bit worried about it being able to take the extra power.... only one way to find out :). At the rate I'm working on this you'll be well done before me although I will have a spare week coming up in August so may get it running soon. Cheers Paul
Hello Paul, Thank you very much for the files. It's a great help. I will not use the smart gearbox and you are right, the honda engine should not fit without some metal cutting and welding. I will have to experiment a lot in 3d. Is there any thing where I can help you?
About timming, It's a 2 year project and I just have started to get information. The Smart I already have (since 2005) but, as with you, time is the real problem...
Hi Paul, Great project very inspiring, I am planning to do a very similar project. It would be very helpful if I could use your 3D files, if you are willing to share: mach1.1971 at hotmail dot com Hope you will find the time to make progress on your project. Thanks for sharing it online. Gus
Hi Paul, Great project. I love the Roadsters but hate the power delivery! Your gear selection motor shifts pretty quickly on the bench in the video you uploaded.. Are the woefully slow and hesitant gear changes of the standard car mainly down to an electric clutch having to disengage and re-engage the petrol engine? If so will your solution flick between the gears (2,4 & 6) as rapidly as that selection motor moves? - As your AC35 motor is coupled permanently through to the gearbox.. Regards, Justin.
Hi Paul. Congratulations for your finished conversion. Just a quick question... did you weight the rear subframe with original engine and wheels? If you did, can you tell me the weight? Thanks Joao
Hello Paul,
ReplyDeleteI am really impressed by your great job !
I am french student in Mechanical engineering school, I am working with my school team on the smart roadster's gearbox.
You seem to be an expert on smart roadster's gearbox. We will be pleased to ask you few questions about it. Is it possible to join you ?
thanks in advance,
have a Nice Day.
Jim
Hi Jim,
ReplyDeleteThank you for your interest in the blog. I can't really claim to be an expert at all on the gearbox at all, I have build the arduino motor controller to activate the gearbox selector which seems to work ok but is as yet still untested on the final system. I won't be using the clutch activation motor as I have a direct drive and will need to change gear by simply moving the selector and hopefully it should change to the next gear ratio without too much problem, my plan is to remove each intermediate gear so that I can select an empty position before moving it into the next gear, i.e. I will only use 2,4 and 6th gear or perhaps only 3rd and 5th? this may also improve the efficiency of the gearbox as a whole. I have taken the gearbox apart to see how it works so I understand it but I'm not sure I will be able to help you very much. Unfortunately I don't have much time at the moment which is why I can never seem to be able to finish this conversion.
I will help if I can, what would you like to do with your gearbox?.
Paul
Hi Paul,
DeleteThank you for your quick answer. We have a small project which is convert all the electronic control and actuators on the gearbox by mechanical or hydraulic actuators. We have just started to work on it ... and we are wondering how many rotation are needed by the incremental motor to shift up or down a gear.
For example how many rotation are needed to shift up from 1st > 2nd gear ?
Is it the same number of rotation in order to shif up/down a gear ? Even if it is to switch to reverse gear ?
In parallel we are making our own website about smart roadster, would you be agree if we present your work on your electronic conversion with a link up to your blog ? It seems to be very interesting and we think that it should be spread and shared !
Thanks again !
Jim
Hello Paul,
ReplyDeleteI am pleased you are getting back into your Roadster conversion project. I am at the same stage as you are with my Roadster. My trouble is my computer man has got so many things happening in his life that my conversion has stalled.
We are trying to fool the cars computer with a camshaft signal so that it thinks it still has a petrol motor then we think we should be able to change gears using the gear lever!!
Can you tell me are you still planing to use the cars ECU (computer)? Its needed for central locking and a few other things like ABS, I think.
Thanks, Michael.
Hiya Michael,
DeleteI am also looking to convert a roadster and was hoping to maintain use of the original ECU, how did you get on with fooling it into working?
Hello Paul,
ReplyDeleteGreat site and great job you are doing. I have a similar (in some ways) plan to your but the new engine will be a Honda K20A2 instead of an electric. The plan to work on the rear subframe and to keep the electrics of the smart is similar. As Mike asked you, I plan to keep the smart ECU so most of the original electronic features of the car remain working. But I need to fit the honda engine in the smart rear subframe and I was wondering if you could send me your 3d drawings of the thing. I'll be happy to help you anyway I can. My email is joaobasso10 at hotmail dot com. Many thanks. Joao
Hi Joao,
DeleteHow far have you got with keeping the original ECU as that is what I am hoping to do also?
Thanks, Neil
Hi Neil. So far I am only on theory Land. O got to talk to a polish guy that has done the wiring of a Manu engine conversions and he says that he keeps the original engine ECU together with the new engine ECU. I plan to keep sensors working in paralel in the new engine but maybe that will be harder in an electric engine...? Most important Will be to have the rpm signal working and that can be done by adding a trigger ring and the original smart sensor to the electric motor. You have to calculate how many triggers per rotation you need só that max rpm on the electric motor converts into 6000rpm on the smart rev counter.
DeleteHi,
DeleteI definitely want to try and keep the ECU, unfortunately due to young kids, low on cash at the moment and no time I'm still stuck on getting any further with this conversion, the control all laid out on the bench waiting to be switched on, just need some half decent batteries to power it up.
I have always assumed once I discover what the sensors are on the engine I can replicate them using an Arduino (or some simple electrical method) to fool the ECU into thinking it's controlling the standard engine. I've assumed there aren't too many sensors, Revs, a few Temperature, oil levels etc. As you say the engine revs can be triggered by the electric motor so that's easy.
Hopefully I'll find out soon, I tried to start the ICE recently to keep it moving but the alternator is ceased again (and the clutch was snatching badly last time I drove it) so the best thing is just to take the whole sub-frame out and get on with the conversion.
Can't wait to get this finished.
Paul
Hi Joao,
ReplyDeleteI've emailed you with the CAD files. Hope they are useful.
I'm amazed the Honda will fit, are you using the Smart gearbox?, I'd be a bit worried about it being able to take the extra power.... only one way to find out :).
At the rate I'm working on this you'll be well done before me although I will have a spare week coming up in August so may get it running soon.
Cheers
Paul
Hello Paul,
ReplyDeleteThank you very much for the files. It's a great help. I will not use the smart gearbox and you are right, the honda engine should not fit without some metal cutting and welding. I will have to experiment a lot in 3d. Is there any thing where I can help you?
About timming, It's a 2 year project and I just have started to get information. The Smart I already have (since 2005) but, as with you, time is the real problem...
ReplyDeleteHi Paul,
ReplyDeleteGreat project very inspiring, I am planning to do a very similar project.
It would be very helpful if I could use your 3D files, if you are willing to share: mach1.1971 at hotmail dot com
Hope you will find the time to make progress on your project. Thanks for sharing it online.
Gus
Hi Paul, Great project.
ReplyDeleteI love the Roadsters but hate the power delivery!
Your gear selection motor shifts pretty quickly on the bench in the video you uploaded..
Are the woefully slow and hesitant gear changes of the standard car mainly down to an electric clutch having to disengage and re-engage the petrol engine? If so will your solution flick between the gears (2,4 & 6) as rapidly as that selection motor moves? - As your AC35 motor is coupled permanently through to the gearbox..
Regards, Justin.
Hi Paul, what was the final cost for the conversion? Are you street legal now? I would be intersted in hearing back from you droogieuk@gmail.com
ReplyDeleteHi Paul.
ReplyDeleteCongratulations for your finished conversion.
Just a quick question... did you weight the rear subframe with original engine and wheels? If you did, can you tell me the weight?
Thanks
Joao